RE: Honda EU2000i extended run time gas tank
You're not the only person who has had trouble connecting a functioning auxiliary fuel supply to a Honda (or other make) generator.
This is a situation where the "Devil is in the details".
The connection between the generator and the auxiliary tank must be ABSOLUTETLY leak tight. (this means vacuum tight) The tiniest pinhole leak will mean that the generator won't be fed.
Problems arise with the wrong idea that you can somehow screw any type of threaded fitting into the 1/8" thick plastic Honda fuel cap and get a mechanically-strong, leak-proof connection by sealing this 1/8" thick junction with globs of super goop. This MAY work for a while if it's done very carefully, but the connection is extremely weak, and is likely to fail, if not immediatly, will fail over time. You need to install a BULKHEAD FITTING (about $10 from various vendors) THROUGH the hole in the the Honda cap. Bulkhead fittings have a flange above, a nut below, and have a threaded hole through the center for the fuel fittings. They are designed to clamp onto both sides of a hole in a wall or bulkhead. An o-ring installed under the outer flange of a bulkhead fitting will provide a rugged, 100% leak-free connection.
However you do it, believe that the auxiliary tank idea DOES WORK. It REQUIRES that the connections are absolutely leak tight, and that the aux. tank is as high, or higher than the gen tank. (the higher, the better) Mine works like a champ!
RE: FreightlinerAir Tanks
It's likely that you already have a factory-installed quick-disconnect air fitting located in the front of your MH, to which you can plug in an air hose for tire filling. It should not be necessary to tap in or add anything to the existing air system.
The factory air fitting will be located somewhere in the front of the MH, perhaps in a front generator compartment. This quick-disconnect air fitting is provided so that the MH air system can be pressurized from an outside source (tow truck), thereby releasing the MH air-operated parking brake to allow towing if the MH is disabled. jrp has it right.
RE: Can I replace an RV refrigerator with a regular refrigerator
AC household-type refrigerators work well in RV's. Don't believe the old wives tale that plugging and unplugging them will cause damage. Every time the thermostat cycles the refrigerator is turned "on" then "off".
There ARE two potential problems, one small problem, and one large problem:
1) You must make a provision to provide airflow over the condenser coil on the back of the fridge when mouning it in a cabinet. I wired a 120 volt computer fan, pulling air past the condenser and exhausting through louvers, through the fridge thermostat so that the computer fans runs only when the fridge compressor runs.
2) The second problem is much more difficult to solve, unless you are always connected to shore power or to an operating generator. Tou will need an inverter and a VERY LARGE battery bank to power the fridge when not connected to shore power or a generator. Typical fridge draws 350-400 watts when running. (read the nameplate on your fridge, and use this value) Assume 400 watts. This is 33 amps @ 12vdc, to which you must add about 15% for inverter inefficiency, which makes total draw from RV batteries approx 38 amps when fridge is running.
To power above fridge for 24 hours from batteries with a 50% duty cycle would draw approx. 450 amp-hours from the RV batteries. You should not draw batteries down below about 50%, therefore you would need a 900 ah battery bank. A PAIR of 6v golf cart (GC-2) batteries provides about 240 ah @ 12vdc. You would need four GC-2 battery pairs (8 batteries total, at about 500 lb) to power your fridge for 24 hours, with a bit left over for other loads.
Your fridge may draw less than 400 watts, and you may wish to assume less than a 50% duty cycle, nevertheless the above will give you an idea of the battery capacity required if you intend to operate fridge without a 120 vac power source.
RE: inverter problem
What type of voltmeter did you use when checking the inverter voltage?
Standard voltmeters provide highly inaccurate readings when measuring modified sine wave voltages. This is caused by the shape of the modified AC waveform. Check again using a RMS (root-mean-square) voltmeter.
There probably is nothing wrong with your inverter. Does it power most AC devices without problems?
RE: New to towing, need some help.
Installation of a Class III hitch on 1984-2001 Cherokees is very easy. The hitch is simply bolted into existing holes in the rear frame of the Jeep, using bolts supplied with the hitch. No welding is required. (check installation instructions)
There are at least four manufacturers making Class III (rated 3500/5000 lb) hitches which fit your Jeep. Take your choice. Cost is $150 or less. Suggest you look at "etrailer" as a source for hitches, etc.....(www.etrailer.com) Installation does not require a specialist. Anyone with wrenches can install this hitch in about 1/2 hour. If you're buying trailer from a dealer, let him install it. (should install for a nominal cost, or perhaps for free)
Your Cherokee and the Class III hitch are rated to tow 5000 lb ONLY when equipped with a weight-distributing hitch. Otherwise, they are limited to 3500 lb total trailer weight. IMO, you're unlikely to need the WD hitch if the GVWR of your pop-up is as stated. What's the source for, "weighs 2700 to 3400 lb?" Is this GVWR?? When determining potential trailer weight, use ONLY the GVWR, never guesses, "curb weight", "empty weight", "dry weight", etc.
You'll also need a ballmount and trailer ball. Ballmount has a shank which slides into the 2" square socket in the hitch, and a tab on the other end where the ball is attached. They come in different heights. Choose a height which positions the ball so that your trailer is level or slightly nose down when towing. Ball diameter must match the trailer coupler. (probably 2")
With either hitch type, I suggest that you also install a friction-type sway control. (about $60) The rear sway control mount usually bolts to trailer tongue, and front mount uses a tab which is attached to the ballmount (welding could be required here, depending on your particular configuration)
You DO need brakes and brake controller.
RE: jeep adding milage when being towed
Jeeps with electronic odometers should not record mileage when ignition switch is properly positioned for towing.
Start with the ignition switch in the "locked" position. (key removed, dash indicators, radio, etc are "off", steering wheel locks up when turned)
Insert key. Turn to the right (clockwise) to the 1st detent position. You can feel this. Steering will become unlocked, dash indicators remain "off", key cannot be removed. If you turn too far to the right, the dash indicators (and other electrical items, including odometer) will come "on". Key remains in ignition switch while towing.
It is very important that steering wheel is unlocked when towing 4-down. This is accomplished with switch in the 1st detent position, which unlocks steering wheel without energizing electrical circuits. JFG and Ric are correct.
See your Owners Manual.
RE: Battery cable size????
Your 2000 watt inverter will draw approx. 190 amps at its 12 VDC input in order to deliver 2000 watts. Refer to a voltage drop table to determine the proper cable size to deliver 190 amps @ 12 VDC to the inverter with no more than a 3% total voltage drop. Required cable size will vary, depending on the total supply circuit length. (battery to inverter and return)
The total 190 amp current is carried by the cable interconnecting two (2) series-connected 6v batteries.
When using two 6v battery pairs (series/parallel connection), the current carried by each battery pair is 1/2 of the total current i.e. 95 amps in your case. Cables connecting the pairs, and the cables interconnecting each 6v pair will all carry 95 amps, and may be sized accordingly. (not the same size as the inverter supply....smaller)
RE: Power converter question
You have now diagnosed, not guessed at, a converter problem. Your converter is NOT providing in the order of 13.7v at the battery terminals (is 12.35v) when operating and connected to battery and the fridge load. (see 3rd paragraph of my post above) Humming doesn't count.
The next step is to determine WHY Parallax is not charging. You could have a simple, external problem (open fuse, failed breaker, disconnected wiring, bad connection, etc), which is easily corrected for little cost. If not external, you should replace the converter section of your Parallax 6300. ($200 if you can do it yourself...more if by others) It makes little sense to spend time and money repairing the inferior Parallax unit.
The Best Converter kits (www.bestconverter.com) are an excellent choice for a Parallax replacement. A 3-stage converter replacement (Progressive Dynamics, WIFCO, etc) is vastly superior to the single-stage Parallax 6300 converter. It will recharge much faster, and will virtually elimonate overcharging when connected 24/7.
RE: Power converter question
You need to clarify info. in your post.
Was the 13.75v measured with battery disconnected, or when connected to operating converter? If disconnected, you were measuring the surface charge on the newly charged battery. Flooded batteries temporarily provide a high voltage immediately after charging. You must wait 24-36 hours after charging with battery disconnected for the surface charge to dissipate in order to get an accurate terminal voltage reading. Alternatively, connect about a 20 amp load for 2-3 minutes after charging to dissipate the surface charge. You can then immediately get an accurate terminal voltage reading. (should be about 12.6v for a fully charged battery)
13.75v would be a normal terminal voltage reading with the converter operating. Your Parallax converter output shoud be a constant 13.6-13.7v Check for this terminal voltage with battery and load connected and converter operating. If not so, you likely have a converter problem.
Your post is unclear whether the converter was operating or not when your battery discharged in driveway. Discharge is normal with fridge load, if converter not operating. If converter operating, fridge connected, and the terminal voltage is per above, you likely have a battery problem.
Parallax 6300 converter is certainly no winner, but should power the fridge without discharge when operating and connected to a decent battery. Don't assume converter is at fault until you check terminal voltage when converter operating with load connected.
RE: Anyone else have the black water tank fill first?
Bath sink is sometimes connected to black tank instead of gray tank. (see above)
Pour your dishwater down the kitchen sink, and see if problem goes away before getting involved in other more complex possibilities. (you could also trace the piping to see how it's routed)
RE: 12 volt digital TV
Responses to the original question are confusing, to say the least.
As I understand it, Keith initially asked two (2) questions:
1) Where do I find a NEW, 12 VDC-powered, 15"-19" digital TV which I can install in my RV, which does not require a 12 VDC-to-120 VAC POWER INVERTER (not converter) in order to power the TV when boondocking? (inverters are too inefficient)
2) Where do I find a digital-to-analog SIGNAL CONVERTER that could be used with an older, analog TV, so that the analog TV can receive the new digital signals?
I responded to what I perceived as question #1, where I discuss new, 12 VDC-powered TV's. Signal conversion is NOT involved, since a NEW TV will already have a digital tuner.
Most responses relate to question #2, discussing antennas and various means of installing, switching, and powering digital-to-analog SIGNAL CONVERTERS.
There's a lot of confusion in terms here. (converter/inverter, signal conversion/power conversion, etc)
My interpretation of the original question may be entirely wrong. Perhaps Keith would clarify.
RE: 12 volt digital TV
Many of the current LCD TV's in the 15"-19" size range operate only on 12 VDC. These are the standard TV's, not specialized units sold as having dual voltage capability. Look at standard LCD TV's found in any TV store.
These TV's are equipped a 120 VAC power cord intended to plug into a standard 120 VAC household receptacle. The power cord contains a 120 VAC to 12 VDC converter (often called a "brick"), which supplies 12 VDC to the TV. The TV itself operates only on 12 VDC. The power cord receptacle in the TV is usually labeled "12 VDC".
Look for the "brick". (a large lump in the standard, supplied 120 VAC power cord) Don't expect most store personnel to understand this. Simply cut the power cord downstream of the "brick", and connect TV direcly to a 12 VDC power source in your RV. No conversion is needed.
RE: Inteli-Power Converters
You remove only the Parallax converter section from the existing Parallax housing. Existing Parallax AC and DC fuses/breakers and distribution wiring are retained.
A PD converter is then installed in the Parallax housing in the space vacated by the Parallax converter, which PD converter is connected to the existing AC/DC wiring. Original mounting and wiring are retained.
Contact Best Converter (www.bestconverter.com) for a kit to accomplish the above.
How Small is a "small" TT?
Great idea to have a separate forum for small TT'S! The small, lightweight units have somewhat different issues than large ones regarding suitable TV's, layout, hitches, electrical and plumbing systems, etc.
IMO, as presently constituted, the "Small TT Forum" is a distinction without a difference, until "small" is defined.
In the first few pages of posts to the new "small" trailer forum, various trailers have been discussed, two of which have a GVWR of 9,000 lb and 7,000 lb respectively. (the only two obviously large trailers that I checked the specs for)
There's nothing wrong with a 9,000 lb GVWR unit, except that its discussion, obviously, does not belong in a "small trailer" forum.
Suggest that this forum be limited to trailers with a GVWR of 5,000 lb or less. (your opinion?) I DO mean the PLACARDED GVWR, not "empty weight", "curb weight", what you think yours weighs, how long it is, what your trailer weighs when loaded to less than GVWR, etc. Post over 5,000 lb GVWR in the regular TT forum.
Every trailer has a GVWR determined by the manufacturer. It's listed on a nameplate, decal, or in the manufacturers specs. GVWR is the only universal, hard number that I can think of, available to everyone, which can be used to differentiate between "large" and "small" trailers.
Without such a distinction, IMO, this new forum will become a "kluge" which does not focus on the specialized issues involved with truly small trailers.
Above is my opinion. I'm sure there will be many others.
RE: Formulas for battery life with inverter
Determine the AC ampere draw of the total 120 volt AC load to be powered by the inverter. Divide total AC watts to be supplied by inverter by 120. Answer will be AC ampere draw.
Multiply AC amp draw by 11.5. Answer will be the DC amps supplied to the inverter by your batteries. (typical 85% efficient, 12 volt inverter)
Multiply DC amps into the inverter by the number of hours that load is connected. Answer will be the number of ampere-hours your house batteries must supply. (in your case, no more than 80 AH before recharging)
RE: When does weather cause you to bring in slides?
Potential hail damage to extended slide toppers is also a consideration in severe weather conditions.
Several years ago, my 2-slide DP was in one of our infamous KS hailstorms. Both extended toppers were extensively holed, requiring replacement. This surprised me, since I had theorized that the flexible, heavy topper material would be relatively immune to this type of damage. The reality proved to be quite different.
RE: building large shed, need help on ht and width
A principle to influence your thinking when planning the new building is as follows:
The least expensive way to increase the interior volume of the building is to increase the sidewall height. The roof and roof support trusses, and the foundation are its most expensive elements. These elements are unchanged as sidewall height increases.
Cost per cubic foot of inceased volume is typically 1/2 when increasing height, as compared to increasing the building footprint. (just something to keep in mind if you're undecided between two different heights)
RE: Honda EU2000i Generator
Attempting to screw a threaded fitting into the thin plastic Honda gas cap and then sealing this joint with JB Weld (or a similar sealer) will not create a reliable, leak-proof joint. It is almost guaranteed to leak, sooner or later.
You must use a bulkhead fitting and an O-ring. Hole saw through the center of the cap and the rubber sealing washer on inside of cap (first, remove Honda vent assembly) to accept the OD of the bulkhead fitting Install the bulkhead fitting through the hole in cap and inside rubber washer, using an O-ring under the outer flange of the bulkhead fitting. When bulkhead fitting is tightened, it compresses the O-ring and clamps on the thinwall cap from both sides. This creates a mechanically-rugged connection and an absolutely leak-proof seal between bulkhead fitting OD and cap.
You can then install hose barbs of your choice both inside and outside, utilizing the internal pipe threads of the bulkhead fitting.
http://www.hoseandfittings.com/catalog/Fitting/Brass/Pipe/Female_x_Female_Bulkhead.html?_session_id=4977.61.325572.7
Wow, that's some URL! If it doen't work, just go to hoseandfittings.com and look around under "brass fittings".
PM if unclear.
RE: Seneca Tire Pressure
Your guess is as good as anyone's guess. If you have NO time to weigh, you will get NO answer to your question, other than the guess of the person responding. (of course you'll get different answers from different people....they're all guessing too!)
ASSUMING that your axles aren't overloaded and the side-to-side weight distribution is even, you can use the 95 psi figure. Is this the case? Who knows? Only the tires know.
You must weigh the loaded coach and then determine the proper tire pressure for each axle on your coach, as you load it, using the tire manufacturer's load/inflation table.
